With precision-perfect craftsmanship, innovation of fur, evening dresses with endless sexy-louche appeal, J. Mendel presented one of the most beautiful collections of the week! Gilles Mendel has a rare eye for luxury that emanated out of every detail, from the feminine silhouettes, so natural and unforced, to the Art-Deco beading and geometric cutouts.
Creamy vanillas, from head to toe, set an uplifting winter-white tone and were a nice way to lead into the high drama of the incredible furs (showcasing ingenious treatments and techniques), hypnotizing gowns, and insouciantly seductive cocktail dresses, some drifting off the models shoulders in a most effortless manner. Different types of fur were seamlessly combined and mounted on chiffon (alpaca, swakara, long hair mink, shadow fox, Mongolian lamb, Tibetan lamb, and long-hair goat!). The blends break the tradition of heavy fur and offered a lightness of being.
Paneled alligator jackets – crisply white and worn with a shadow fox, Finn raccoon and ostrich feather tile word degrade skirt made for an incredible yet wearable work – and tough hides of crocodile tamed, crafted panel by panel and constructed into soft corset, were among the standouts.
Paying homage to Mendel’s mother’s Courreges suits from his childhood he offered flashes of unexpected lining. Details like these, along with the slinky dresses – gold lame sleeves! A classy kind of raciness! – were the immaculate cherries on top of a luscious collection.