You can rely on the Italians to deliver high levels of drama, especially when it comes to the visage. Fall 2012 is no exception. Whether the focus was on the lips, eyes, or hair, no designer went halfway. It was all or nothing. Here’s my pick of the most striking looks:
1) Gucci: Pat McGrath went for high contrast with maximum impact. The clothes were dark and mysterious, so the look had to be equally enigmatic. Bleached-out brows (Pat said dark brows would be too period, rather than modern) and deep-bordeaux lips on pale skin, set off with purposefully clumpy mascara and partially pulled-back locks, added up to strong yet ethereal enchantment.
2) Fendi: Certainly the feathered white eye shadow at Fendi (created with MAC Lipmix by Peter Philips) was hard to miss – it was inspired by antelope fur, but the perfect, crown-like braids by Sam McKnight stole the show. With “Victorian children” in mind, there was a delicacy to these braids, even though the girls were reminiscent of Nordic warrior-princesses.
3) Prada: Prada countered their throwback geometric prints and ornate embellishments with faces from the future. “Digital dolls” was the key phrase, and Miuccia’s girls look like just that. Layers of eye shadow, tiers of jet-black and purple, were topped with brows painted a cool orange. The eyes, already super-severe, were set off with equally intense hair: slicked back and long, enhanced with stick-straight extensions in contrasting shades. For the show? Very appropriate. For real life? Not so much!
4) Moschino: The femme returns! The gigantic bow headbands, sitting on top of neat bouffants, said it all: this girl loves being a girl. The combination of classic, winged cat-eye liner and glossy pale-pink is eternal. How can you tired of something that always looks so good? Brushed-up brows finished off these retro beauties.