Spring 2014 marks a masterful collection from Derek Lam, one that’s impossibly covetable and wearable in equal measures. I spoke with him just 30 minutes before the show, and he gave me the lowdown on what inspired him. “This season it’s about letting go of controlling tendencies, letting fabrics fall where they may. A twist here, a turn there, and allowing it to flow, effortlessly.” This is the most relaxed I’ve ever seen him, but that’s certainly not to say his runway lacked a sense of direction. On the contrary. If anything, his message is crystal-clear. Sportswear is what the man does best, from swinging mid-length skirts that sit oh-so low on the hip to highly chic “no thought required” shift dresses to smartly belted jackets. The standout for me: the black double-face crepe satin twist-front top, brilliantly paired with pajama pants and a satin fringe scarf, as seen on Hanne Gaby Odiele.
These are clothes you’ll be desperate to stock your closet with (if you aren’t already!). Derek’s way with stretch cotton poplin makes for bright white as comfortable as it is crisp, bolero tops make for clever spring layering, and smart and sumptuous take on plaids and checks. Think full-skirted dresses to wear to the hottest restaurant in town, rather than for a picnic in the grass. Touches of texture (raffia and fringe) and strategic reveals (it’s all about the sensual shoulder) punctuated a – dare I say? – perfect collection. If this is Derek letting go, then he should make a steady habit of throwing caution to the wind.