What more is there to say about the modern master of contemporary beauty and elegance that hasn’t already been said? Plenty! Just when you think there is no way Oscar de la Renta can produce yet another overflowing collection of countless looks, each one more inspired and desirable than the last, he does it again. This time, he offered us a decidedly energetic collection infused with menswear in the form of pleated trousers, pinstripe flannel suits, and elements of black leather.
The collection kicked off with strength and hard edges, the aforementioned work wear softened in spots with a ruffled peplum, fluted hem, or a mink trim. Massive cowl necks, cozy cashmere turtlenecks, and voluminous collars of fox fur and shearling offer a sense of practicality, but the Mr. de la Renta’s woman is never without a generous dose of caprice, even if she is stomping the pavement, ruling a boardroom, and knocking back a gin martini post-office (and trust, in these almighty suits, she could do all of that in elevated style). The tougher stuff gave way to flirtier elements like geometric-mesh overlays, with sheer layers for a flash of skin, as well as super-shaggy knit jackets and lighthearted geometric prints, which look particularly fresh in crisp black and white.
Oscar’s signature hand embroidery brings the unadulterated femininity, and the effects are nothing less than irresistible – especially when juxtaposed against satin-slick black leather. Leather tassel belts to cinch the waist make for hourglass silhouettes, and decadent bouclé jacquards come colorblocked and vibrant. Guipere bubble skirts are perfect for flights of fancy (and young ladies of leisure), elements of black tulle feel fun yet dramatic, and decadent details like gold lamé, faille floral appliqués, and feather embroidery add up to the ultimate fashion fantasy.
I’ve said it before, and I’ll say it again: Oscar (and his nine design assistants; he doesn’t mess around!) knows what women want, and it’s to feel both powerful and princess-like, according to mood. And, of course, according to the dress.