What is the essence of the Nina Ricci woman? That’s the question Peter Copping explored at his show at the Jardin yesterday, and the answer he reaped was a most satisfying one. Not that we didn’t have more than a hint already.
Never underestimate the power of a Balmain woman. Or designer Olivier Rousteing, for that matter. While Fall 2014 welcomes a most relaxed collection from Olivier, the sense of confidence is just as potent as ever, proving that power does not lie in the cut of a dress or jacket. It’s all in the spirit.
Freezing rain and slush-filled sidewalks aside, Marc Jacobs’ Fall unveiling (the first without a second gig on his agenda in 14 years) was the best show of the week for me. Billowing clouds reaching down from the ceiling instantly set a mood of freewheeling lightheartedness. And why not? After well over a decade at Louis Vuitton, the man is free.
The cool minimalism of the early nineties has been a theme that’s popped up at the shows for the last few seasons, but leave it to the original master to finally get it just right. That’s not to say Calvin Klein’s Fall collection isn’t modern. Actually, from the fresh dress cuts to the offbeat fabrications, Francisco Costa is proving he’s far ahead of the curve.
Like the creed of the USPS, neither snow, nor rain, nor sleet, nor hail could keep me from going to Ralph Lauren in the middle of the snowstorm. As a girl from LA, I was very proud of myself, especially since I took the subway and walked six blocks in treacherous weather conditions.
When it comes to Marchesa, you are accustomed to expecting certain things that would never cross your mind when sitting down to another show. Things like sweet ethereality, unapologetic femininity, and the all-out appreciation of beauty in the truest, purest sense of the word.
Despite half the attendees nearly missing the show (I was running behind Grace Coddington, who later turned to me in elevator and said, “I am too old for this!”) due to a horrific accident that shut down Seventh Avenue, the mood inside Spring Studios was upbeat and energetic. Both DVF and Michael Kors cut their shows by half to show at the new location on Varick Street.