No pressure or anything for Nicolas Ghesquière. He was only granted the task of taking the reins at one of the most prestigious French houses in the world, in time for Fall 2014. Not that the beloved Ghesquière, he of much-praised Balenciaga fame, doesn’t come with quite a pedigree. But any time there’s a shift in power and a change in creative direction, one must tread carefully.
I say this with confidence: When it comes to mastery of the craft and virtuosity of divine execution, Maria Grazia and Pierpaolo are unparalleled. In a most emotional Fall 2014 show, the pair made their inspiration felt by each and every onlooker: unconventional women deeply rooted in a moment of change.
Nobody understands the importance of showmanship as well as Karl Lagerfeld. For Fall 2014, he took us to market, and the once-in-a-lifetime Chanel Shopping Center experience was one that left all attendees reeling. Strolling into the Costco-sized big-box market made for a surreal moment, one that made me wonder to myself (and I was not alone!), “Where am I?”
Fall 2014 marked a most beautiful show from the duo – and one of Viktor Horsting’s and Rolf Snoeren’s most wearable to date! Last season’s flirty schoolgirl-inspired collection gave way to a more somber, studied Fall.
The first sunny day of the week gave way to an appropriately lighthearted mood at Chloé. The Fall 2014 Chloé girl is as breezy and effortless as ever, and more free-spirited than before. She doesn’t sweat anything; her attitude is chill because she’s confident in herself – and her innate sense of style, no over-the-top accessories or airbrushed face of makeup required.
My favorite dressmaker may just become my favorite bag maker yet. Watch this video I made backstage of the Classico bag. The man is pushing envelopes, literally. These envelope-style bags constructed of origami folds (fastened by a single magnet) allow you to play with and change up the flap of the bag at your whim.
What is the essence of the Nina Ricci woman? That’s the question Peter Copping explored at his show at the Jardin yesterday, and the answer he reaped was a most satisfying one. Not that we didn’t have more than a hint already.
Never underestimate the power of a Balmain woman. Or designer Olivier Rousteing, for that matter. While Fall 2014 welcomes a most relaxed collection from Olivier, the sense of confidence is just as potent as ever, proving that power does not lie in the cut of a dress or jacket. It’s all in the spirit.
Freezing rain and slush-filled sidewalks aside, Marc Jacobs’ Fall unveiling (the first without a second gig on his agenda in 14 years) was the best show of the week for me. Billowing clouds reaching down from the ceiling instantly set a mood of freewheeling lightheartedness. And why not? After well over a decade at Louis Vuitton, the man is free.