Here’s the truth: Thakoon Addition is the best diffusion line. Ever. The prints and draping are as flawless as the Thakoon collection; so good, in fact, I can’t decide which line I love more. While some designers will churn out a little-sister line and give it half the attention, Thakoon Panichgul gives tender, loving care to every minute detail, whether the frock costs $500 or $2,000. His rapidly growing baby line is a field for bold – and successful – experiments, where he tests the new and revamps the tried and true.
No matter what, he knows a woman’s body and uses her curves to his advantage – rather than designing for those without them. The flattened and graphic colorless rose print ($325), a favorite of Resort season, is taken from the collection runway and appropriated to a simply ruched dress. As it goes with all his creations, there is more than meets the eye; the expert nips and tucks flatter the figure, and the details are forgiving for those of us not blessed with a sample size body. From colorblind to Techicolor, the asymmetric and rich abstract-print dress ($650) may seem shapeless, but put it on and you will see that this relaxed cut conforms to your body, somehow giving it an hourglass appearance without being skintight anywhere. And the print? Bright and wild, with a sophisticated spin that only Thakoon can manage. Then there’s the perfected cocktail look: a silk-satin dress ($525), pulsating in blazing violet, is ruched to create an off-shoulder illusion; while, in fact, you’re covered up. The slanted neckline, revealing the sexiest hint of collarbone, is so brilliant you almost forget to look at the curvaceous silhouette.
All of the detail-oriented sensibilities of couture blended with contemporary prices: Thakoon Addition might replace Diane von Furstenberg as my go-to for a seasonal stock-up of dresses.
The colourless dress is pretty good.