It’s ethereal ease all the way for Donna Karan’s Spring ’13 collection, and she doesn’t disappoint. It brimmed with all the draping you could possibly expect from the seasoned pro, but this time she fulfilled it with a cloud-like, diaphanous flow that feels like a dream. The palette: equally dulcet. It began with hazy-day shades, like oyster, waterlily, and eggshell; then moved into the storm (tempest, jade, and mist), followed by glowing, coppery dusk and sunset hues, finally closing with the muted-sand tones that exist between the realities. The story made the message crystal-clear: Donna is going for something soft.
Any sharp lines were blurred with billowing bits of linen, viscose-crepe, and silk-organza; some dresses literally felt like the pouf of a cloud, other outfits read like pure liquid (see Karlie Kloss’ viscose-jersey tunic-and-pants combo). Forget strong eveningwear – and the sharp-shouldered structure of her last collection – this is Donna’s current concept of city-living, and it’s fluid and easy. Though that doesn’t mean it’s lacking in drama, which arrived in the way of extreme draping, tulip-like sculptures, collages of pongee silk, and handkerchief cascades. Even though the show started off clean, texture was en route: shredding, burn-outs, beading, and sequin embroidery brought a little opulence. But just a bit. Donna still shines brightest when it comes to basics; the simple, understated leather jackets you can live in. Then there were the accessories! The clear and frosted Stephen Jones-designed headpieces and cuffs are stunning, a topic which made up most of the post-show buzz.
